Hardware Is more than adequate. Serrated flange nuts were provided (nice). Went together easy. Left & right wings align with the center table top. Legs are strong (metal) and the assembly is rock steady. The red plastic inserts install flush with the table top (an absolute must when working with small pieces). Great dust collection. The table, wings and fence needed no polishing. Good user instruction manual. Works flawlessly. Unit is designed for a 6-inch router base and a maximum board width of 4 inches. Two 16x6x1.0mm washer were needed for this miter gauge (9 cents). The rest are just niceties ($14.39) but not needed for proper operation.Modifications before making test cuts:1. The router clamp bolts were too long. Cut them flush to the tops of the nuts (4 in all). Or buy the correct length carriage bolts for the router.2. Miter rail did not sit all the way down into the miter track, so it wiggled a bit. Remove the miter rail from the degree dial by removing the knob and washer then pop the degree dial pin out of the rail. On the rail place a 16x6x1.0mm washer over the pin hole and a second washer over the threaded hole for the knob. Reinstall the degree wheel back onto its rail. Now the rail will sit 1mm lower and reaches the bottom of the track, substantially reducing the wiggle.3. Replaced the M6x13 x 1.5 mm flat washer with M6x25 x1.5mm fender washers for the 3 feather boards, fence adjusting knobs, and the sliding trim fence knob (9 washers in all).Additions1. Had an extra swivel multi plug adapter for the switch outlet so a vacuum can be switch on at the same time as the router. Make sure the adapter and the on/off switch can take the combined amperage.Modifications after making test cuts:1. Replaced the 4 wing nuts on the two fence mounted feather boards with knurled knobs. Makes it more convenient to adjust the feather boards. (uxcell Knurled Thumb Nuts, 4Pcs M6x1mm 304 Stainless Steel Round Knobs Fasteners for 3D Printer Parts, Silver Tone).2. When making adjustments to the fence, the nuts located on the underside of the table rotate when loosing and tightening the fence adjustment knobs.(Option A) Replace the 2 nuts with 2 wing nuts. The wings hit the table underside ribs and act like stops so no more reaching underneath the table to stop the nuts from turning while making adjustment to the fence position.(Option B) I replace the 2 nuts and 2 washers with 2 T-slot nuts and cut the threaded portion of the two fence tightening knobs to 1-1/4” long as measured from the bottom of the knob. (HHIP 3903-1236 Pro-Series 1040 Steel T-Slot Nut, Black Oxide, M6 Thread, 15mm Length).3. The table power switch is located in the way when making router bit changes and blade height adjustments. Relocated to the right table extension wing.Note:1. When the fence was removed after usage, a pile of saw dust was located under the fence at the exhaust port adapter because of the abrupt change from 2-1/2” to 1-1/4. Still worked fine.2. Manual on page 17 indicates that the safety switch is a magnetic safety switch – IT IS NOT-it is an on/off safety switch of the non-magnetic type.Washers from hardware store (81 cents). Knobs & T-nuts from Amazon ($13.67)Building Tip:Install the 16 leg/wing bolts finger tight. Stand the table up on a level surface. Then snug up the elevation/pivot bolt (the one in the wing arm closes to the wing). That one you use to set the wing elevation even with the table top. Next is the pitch bolt (the one in the wing arm furthest from the wing). Use something straight to lay completely across the wings and table (pipe, level, straight edge, angle iron you get the picture). Adjust the pitch of the wing so it is level with the table top. Tighten the pitch bolt and then the elevation/pivot bolt. The wing will be at the same elevation as the table top and level with the table top. Do the same for the other three wing arms. Last, tighten the 8 edge bolts that attach the inner wing edges to the table left and right outer edges. You now have one level and rock steady wing/table assembly.