This is an amazing quality keyboard stand. Too bad it’s $200, but when you feel the quality of this solid steel you’ll know your money went to good use. It is imported from Germany, which is part of the reason it is expensive.I wanted a stand that offers legroom underneath (so I didn’t want an X stand), is expandable to have at least 2 tiers total, and has wheels.This one has excellent legroom, it’s perfect for sitting down at my desk and have a keyboard in front. I cannot attest to standing, but it has a lot of height settings that are spaced in approximately 0.75” increments. I love it.Next, it supports not 2 tiers, but THREE tiers!! In 2018, they released two new part numbers called the 18811 Stacker and the 18821 Stacker. 18811 adds on as a 2nd tier, and 18821 inserts into 18811 to give you a third tier! Not only that, but you can get the aluminum tray 18819 and turn one of your tiers into a platform!!! I have ordered it and am going to have my synthesizer on the main tier, and maybe a TB-03, TR-09, and Ableton push on that 2nd tier!Lastly, the wheels. I ordered 2” DICASAL stem casters from Amazon. They are made of “PU foam” (aka polyurethane/rubber) - very durable and are rated for over 600 lbs of weight as a set of 4.To install them, first I wanted to remove the bottom 4 pads to reveal just the metal frame. This way the wheels are attached directly to the metal (more stability), and also the pads added a bit extra height, and I wanted to keep it as low as possible since the wheels are already adding another 2.75” of height to the stand. To remove the pads, look at the underside and you’ll see a hole. There is a plastic rivet holding it tightly in place. I used pliers and some small but very strong scissors to break those off. This way, the pads slip right off and you can put them back on anytime.Next, I drilled some holes. This was tough for me since I’m not used to drilling metal, but here’s what I did:Step 1: use a 1/8” drill bit (I’m pretty sure I used a titanium bit. Needs to be good for drilling steel) and put it through the hole where the rivet was and drill all the way through to the other side of the metal. Do this for both holes on both feet (so you’re drilling 4 times). This way, you have perfectly aligned holes which you will use as a guide to drill a larger hole.Step 2: For the holes on the upper side of the feet (e.g. you would see these when the stand is upright), drill 3/8” holes. This is enough space for the stem of the caster wheel to go through.Step 3: For the hole on the underside (this is hole already exists because it’s where the rivet went), drill a 13/16” hole. I didn’t have a 13/16” drill bit, and in fact it may be very difficult to get such a huge drill bit to cut this. So, I drilled using the largest drill bit I had close to 13/16” (in my case 3/8” was the closest I could do). Then, I used a tungsten carbide cutter (9903) dremel tool to make the hole the right size. Pretty much, you need it to be about a .8” hole. Accuracy is not needed here, you just need the caster wheel to fit through the hole properly so that the weight of the stand is evenly distributed across the entire round platform of the caster (and not just the screw/bolt of the stem).Step 4: I screwed on the caster wheel, and it’s done! (I added some loctite threadlocker blue 242 to each screw so the bolt stays on tight and doesn’t loosen while I’m moving it around, since the stem length of 1” just perfectly has the washer screwed on with no room to spare).This thing feels very sturdy, and I can lock the wheels as needed. I just set this up and am writing this review while it’s fresh in my head, but will provide an update if anything changes!UPDATE: I received the 18811 Stacker and the 18819 keyboard tray today. It is amazing!!! Just see the pics. I wish the tray was wider to fit more stuff though.